| Step-1 Design:
|

|
Choose your design with thought
and consider what you are capable of accomplishing talent
wise. Research the project and carefully select your glass
and construction type. Put into place the needed components
such as supplies, IE: foil, outer metal edging or wood framing,
bevels, jewels, etc. Once everything is ready to go and your
just dying to get started started - take a deep breath and
please take your time. |
|
| Step-2 Pattern:
Tools: Foil Scissors & Regular Scissors |

|
Once drawn there should be two copies, one for the pattern
and one for the cartoon. Both drawings should have piece,
numbers that match the each drawing, located on each piece
to be cut. In addition you might consider the grain or direction
of glass. The pattern is cut and separated into tubs for the
next step |
| |
| Step-3 Spray Pattern:
Tools: Spray adhesive, cardboard
|

|
After the pattern is cut, each piece of paper should be
sprayed with a suitable adhesive. This will ensure that the
pattern sticks to the glass surface during the cutting &
grinding steps. |
| |
| Step-4 Cutting Glass:
Tools: Glass Cutter + Oil & Glass Pliers
|

|
(Leave the paper on…) Scoring the glass is a task
that improves with repetition. Try a few practice cuts before
jumping into that shinny new piece of opal glass just staring
at you. Look around for a glasscutter that best suites your
needs and one that is comfortable to hold. Start at the edge
of the glass and make a nick, then with a nice even pressure
on the wheel, run the cutter over the surface of the glass.
Always cut from the smoothest side of the glass. The pattern
can act as a guide for the wheel to score it’s cut.
The sound should be similar to a clean quiet zipper. Then
with your glass Pliers break the glass as shown in the photo.
Remember there’s no better way to learn how to cut glass
then to practice on scraps. |
| |
Step-5 Grinding Glass:
Tools: Glass Grinder or Abrasive Stone |


|
(Leave the paper on…) When all the glass has been
scored and broken out, try separating the different colors
into tubs, this way you can find the pieces easier when you
start to clean and lay them out. Grinding serves a two-fold
purpose. It shapes the uneven or jagged edges of the glass
that has been cut, and roughens up the edges of the glass
so the foil tape will adhere to the textured surface. If you
are working on a small project and feel your glass cutting
skill is top notch, then you may only require the use of a
abrasive stone to smooth out the rough edges if any. If your
cutting skills are less then perfect or the glass is not cooperating
then an electric glass grinder is the tool. |
| |
| Step-6 Cleaning & Layout:
Tools: Rags, paper towels, Windex
|

|
(Leave the paper on…) After the grinding step is
completed, it begins to get a little more interesting and
colorful. Now with all the glass ground and separated into
tubs, take them to the table or work area where the cartoon
is laid out. Start pulling one piece at a time and removing
the paper, cleaning it carefully, especially on the edges
where the foil tape will adhere. Remember to make a mental
note of the number or identifier so you can place it on the
corresponding number on the cartoon. |
| |
| Step-7 Stretching The Lead:
Tools: Stretcher or Sm. Lead Vise

Small Lead Vise
|

|
The Lead must be stretched prior to use for the first time.
The taught lead came makes for nice even widths and straight
lines.

Stanton Stretcher |
| |
Step-8 Fitting:
Tools: Lead Dykes Rule, Hand Fid |

|
This type of panel is put together similar to a puzzle.
The pieces are fitted down and out, usually from an upper
corner. I like to start in the upper right hand corner. This
way I don't block myself in fitting a piece of glass into
the layout. As the glass is taken from it's tubs, the paper
is removed and the glass is cleaned and then placed in the
appropriate spot on the cartoon. This is when I start cutting
came with lead dykes and assembling the puzzle. |
| |
Step-9 More Fitting:
Tools: Pencil
|

|
A technique I often use is to hold the came next to the
piece it will channel up to and the mark it for the cut. Cutting
lead is almost as easy as cutting butter with a hot knife.
Although copper foil work is a bit more tedious, lead channel
is easier but requires more skill, if that makes any sense.
|
|
Step-10 Still More Fitting:
Tools: Hand Fid
|
 |
Using the hand fid as tool for lead channel fitting, may not
be the intended and proper use of this tool but it sure works
for me. Use your imagination for tools like this, if they work
more power to them. As you see by this photo the lead and glass
are pushed to align with the cartoon lines to produce a square
and even panel. |
Note: As always please wear safety glasses...Now
is a good time to plug in your Soldering Iron to warm it
up
|
|
| Step-11 Soldering Prep:
Tools: Wire Brush, Flux + Flux Brush |

|
Once you are satisfied you have placed the glass and lead
in alignment with each other, and that all are secure with
either glass pins or horseshoe nails, we can advance to the
next step. Prior to painting the joints with a flux chemical,
take a good brass wire brush to the joints. Steel wool will
work just as well. Make sure you clean off the little wool
hairs off thoroughly before applying the flux or doing any
soldering. |
| |
Step-12 Soldering:
Tools: Solder + Iron
|
 |
The surface of the lead must be free from oils or dirt and
oxidation, in order to accept the solder as it was intended
to. With a nice hot iron ready to go, we can apply the solder
at the joints or intersections of came. I like to use a temperature
controlled iron, one that can be adjusted for more or less heat.
I also like to use 60/40 solder exclusively for lead channel
work. CAUTION-The lead came will melt away if the iron is too
hot. |
|
Beginners: Try a practice joint first...
If your not sure what a professional joint should look like,
try going to Kitchen Showroom, one that has stained glass panels
on display and look at the workmanship.
After both sides have been soldered and cleaned from flux and
residue try some stained glass finishing compound to polish
the glass and metal surface to shinny luster.
|