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Step-8 Grinding
Tools:
- Electric Disc Grinder Opt.
- Electric Grinder Opt.
- Carbundum Stone
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(Leave the paper on…) When all the glass has been scored
and broken out, try separating the different colors into tubs,
this way you can find the pieces easier when you start to clean
and lay them out. Grinding serves a two-fold purpose. It shapes
the uneven or jagged edges of the glass that has been cut, and
roughens up the edges of the glass so the foil tape will adhere
to the textured surface. If you are working on a small project
and feel your glass cutting skill is top notch, then you may
only require the use of a carbundum stone to smooth out the
rough edges if any. If your cutting skills are less then perfect
or the glass is not cooperating then an electric glass grinder
is the tool. |
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| Step-9 Fitting
Tools:
- Lathkin
- Glass Mallet
- Horseshoe Nails
- Wire Brush
- Soft Bristle Brush
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If I have not said it, then I will now, "Brass Channel"
is the most difficult to work with. It does not bend like
lead channel and is no where as free flowing as copper foil.
Exercise care when selecting your design. Brass will not bend
into a tight radius. |
This phase will set the stage for the components of glass
and brass metal came to be fitted up for soldering. On the outer
edge of the panel limits we will place a wooden rail or border
stop. This will act as the boundary for the panel itself. Always
check and align the corners so they are square are true with
perfect right angles. This will ensure a good fit for glass
and framing, not to mention the appearance of the panel. This
type of panel is put together similar to a puzzle. The pieces
are fitted down and out, usually from an upper corner. I like
to start in the upper right hand corner. This way I don't block
myself in fitting a piece of glass into the layout. |
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Now is a good time to plug in your Soldering Iron
to warm it up
When you have successfully completed the layout and fitting
process, pat yourself on the back. Brass is beautiful, but
you will work for it. |
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Step-10 Soldering
Tools:
- Soldering Iron
- Flux & Brush
- Rags
- Ventilation Fan
- Solder 60/40
- Window Cleaner
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Now you are ready to set up for the soldering phase. If your
came or brass channel looks dirty, try using a (0000 steel wool)
this fine grade of steel wool will not harm most types of glass,
and with a light pressure, rubbing the joint to be soldered,
shouldn't harm the brass either. With the glass and brass channel
cleaned and prepared, we are ready to apply the flux. I like
to use a water based flux, because it is not as harsh on the
elements. I.E. copper, lead, brass, etc.. We don't want to leave
the flux on very long before soldering takes place. Also remember
to clean the surface of the came off sporadically between soldering
sessions, usually at 4 minute intervals. Soldering is much like
cutting glass in that practice makes you better at it. Channeled
glass is only soldered at the intersections, where the came
meets together. On channeled glass work I like to use 60/40
solder as it melts faster. This in turn causes less heat transfer
to the came which could damage it. The soldering irons I use
are also geared for specific applications. Try a temperature
controlled iron for this type of work. |
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Step-11 Finishing
Tools:
- Brass Marking Pen
- Swab
- Window Cleaner
- Rags
- Engraver
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Counting the joints is a quality check that
I do. It's purpose is ensure that all the joints have been
soldered. One thing I have learned is that a small drop of
solder is easily overlooked on medium to large size panel.
With a small pencil or stick I touch each joint on the panel
to inspect it for solder and insure it has been soldered properly.
Since the natural color of solder is silver, there is a contrast
between the brass and the silver colors. To some this is perfectly
acceptable. To others it is not. Many professional studios
will touch up the joints where the silver solder is present.
There are several marker pens on the market available to the
stained glass industry. This procedure is as simple as coloring.
Just be careful to stay on the solder joints. Last but not
least, always sign your work. This is and has always been
the mark of a true artist.
Sign and date your work for future reference, you never know
who will become the great artist of our time..
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Note: As always please wear
safety glasses.
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This concludes the Brass Channel
Tutorial. |
